May 22 - Day 22 Paul Bight to Niblack anchorage

 

May 22 – Day 22   Paul Bight to Niblack anchorage

 

The Twins

 

We got another couple dozen prawn in the pot this morning.

 

Steve saw a bear early this morning on shore right near us but did not take any photos or tell anyone.  Was it really there?   Rule is -- No photo, did it really happen?  

 

Pulled out about 10am  headed for Niblack anchorage in Moira Sound.  

 

Shortly thereafter we spotted a momma bear with two little cubs on the beach.  Moved closer to shore to try to get a good photo.  Momma was eating and the cubs were playing.  One cub was very active following mom around while the other one was a bit shy and stayed near cover.  Not great photos as we could not get close enough, but proof that we saw them.  Here are some attempts.      

 

Morning balance beam workout  or  Learning to walk on logs

 

A longer lens would make for better photos.

 

One cub in front of mom, and the other is hiding behind her

 

Continued on to Niblack anchorage in Moira Sound.   We are a bit south of Ketchikan now, as we are heading on a clockwise route around Prince of Whales Island.  Tomorrow we’ll be very close to the Canadian border again.  No, don’t turn left we aren’t ready to go back to Canada yet.  

 

We had some rougher water along this stretch, so the special jewelry went on.  Waves splashed onto the windows so the boat will be a salty mess.  Dave and Jane in the middle boat in the line spotted a whale but no one else saw it.   

 

It started raining lightly just as we entered the anchorage, then stopped right after everyone was tied up.  But not enough rain to wash the salt off, so time to break out the water hoses and squeegees.

This is a very well protected bay, as there are high hills on three sides and a narrow entrance on the fourth.  There is snow on some of the hills and with the rain and low clouds, coupled with the cold air, it feels and sort of looks like winter again.  

 

There is a fishing camp here, but it appears to be closed or at least empty now.  Shorelands look to be potential for bear sightings.  

 

Late afternoon – played cribbage on Magic while making soup.  Finally, Michelle and Liz won two games, playing against Jane and Glen.  Steve was working, and Dave was doing Dave stuff.  

Had a seafood dinner with:  Crab soup, sautéed prawn pasta, Cajun boiled prawns, a great green with veggie salad, and freshly made French bread.  Yummy.  Naturally too much food was prepared again so we will see soup and pasta again tomorrow.  Glen, the kid who does not do shellfish made do with a  hamburger.  

 

After dinner a few took a run outside the bay in Nellie to try to get one last upload and download of messages and emails as there was no cell service in the bay.  Communications with the ‘outside world’ is sometimes a challenge.  We are working on coordinating schedules, locations, and flights for when ‘new crew’ (aka guests) will be joining the fleet over the next couple months.  Also trying to arrange to be in the ‘right/good’ places to get connections for my conference calls. 

 

Had our routine movie night and called it a day.   I think between the three boats we have over 200 movies to choose from.  Some will not be chosen, who brought those!  

 

 

 

May 19 - Back to Ketchikan

 

May 19 – Back to Ketchikan

 

Workday.  Steve and Michelle are returning to the fleet today.  Dave and Jane have some work to do in town, I have a couple conference calls plus a few other calls for my NSP board work.  Glen, well he will find something to do. 

 

On the way we received a radio call from Spirit from RHYC.  Patrick and Miriam Gill are back on the water this summer which is wonderful.  They have Harry and Terri Johnson on board as friends and crew this summer which is great too.  They reported that Maximo with Steve and Kim Oberto are heading up  in a couple days from Seattle.  We look forward to crossing paths with all these friends this summer.    We now know of five RHYC boats in Alaska this summer, there may be more.  The weather and water have been great so far this trip.

 

We got into town and docked up with time to spare before taking the little boat over to the airport to pick up Steve and Michelle.  We’re glad to have them back with us.    This time we are moored in the Barr Harbor basin with lots of fishing boats, which is always fun.  It is much closer to the stores, not that a walk would hurt us.  Last week we were in the City Dock basin closer to town (tourist area). 

 

We did a quick run to the grocery, fishing tackle, and hardware stores looking for those last minute ‘we really don’t need but just want to haves’.  Like the 5 bags of potato chips; neither Glen nor Steve could resist the buy 2 get 3 free deal.   Luckily they only added 5 bags each to the inventory.  

 

I likely didn’t say it last week but Ketchikan, the more touristy areas like Creek Street etc… look like a ghost town.  Most stores are closed-up with windows covered with paper.  No cruise ships, and no hundreds of people walking the streets.  While Michelle, Jane and I were walking around we only a found one store open on Creek Street.  Covid has taken a toll on this city.   Very sad.   We are also not seeing nearly the boat traffic that we’ve seen in the past, but it is still early in the season.

 

The group minus 1 (me due to conference calls) went out to dinner.  Annabelle’s, buy a drink get dinner for $5

 

 

 

Day 15-16 Traitor's Cove

May 16th Traitor Cove


This is a nice, protected bay with high hills all around, some with snow on top.


Another boat came in and shared the bay. They were from San Francisco, and this is their 5th trip to Alaska. We took a hike along a gravel road.


Looking for more adventure and bear, we went for a boat ride taking a lunch with us. We went through rapids and to the end of the next bay. Saw one campsite with people and a couple other boats, likely from that campsite.


The first bear we saw was upside down. Well not naturally upside down; it was hanging from its feet tied to a pole between two hunters. It did not look very large. Poor bear, it’s now going to be in someone’s freezer. Just around the bend we saw another bear. It spotted our boat and ran into the woods. It probably knew about hunters in the area and thought we were hunting. The only shots we take are by camera.





On the way back from our outing we checked the crab pots. We caught several crab but it seemed we found the crab nursery. No keepers. Then we saw a bear on the beach, the same bear we saw on that beach yesterday. A bit later we saw another bear on the beach at the end of the bay. Likely the same bear we saw on that beach yesterday. Bears are loners and territorial. Both bear appeared to be bigger than the one headed to the freezer.





May 15th – Naha to Traitor’s Cove


It rained all night. I can deal with rain at night if we have nice weather and water during the day.


Down one boat as Steve and Michelle left us early this morning to do some chores at home for a few days.


We headed out for Traitors Cove which was not too far away. Got anchored and it started raining. Then it cleared but stayed gray. Midafternoon we went on an explore the Cove tour and hopefully a bear viewing. We saw the remains of a boat, not much left, another boat up on the shore upside down, likely put there by cabin owners. That is assuming that there are cabins in the woods. Critter count 1 bird (we don’t count seagulls), 1 seal and YIPEE … one black bear. It was just shoreside of the trees eating the long grass.




Bear wet from the rain eating grass

Day 14 – Naha Bay

May 14th – Naha Bay

Glen and Steve went to check the shrimp pot --- a few but not enough for a everyone's dinner. The pot went back down for another soak. They put out crab pots too.




Skid ramp for getting small boats up into the lake


The group went for a hike up to the other end of the lake. There has been some trail work done on the sections closer to the falls, picnic area and small dock. They have added a lot of new gravel to the trails and put in some log stairs in places. Nice work. Further up the lake the trail needs a good deal of work. There is old board walk in places, with bridges over marsh areas, but much of the boardwalk has seen better days. Downed trees across the trail, rotted or missing boards on the boardwalk, and slippery rocks make it somewhat interesting. Our hike took almost 4 hrs. The board walks in Alaska are great since the tundra is often wet and mucky. The animals also use the board walks, some calling them 'bear highways'.




Odd combination at bible camp – Skunk Cabbage and Daffodils











There was evidence of bear in the area but they were hiding. Saw deer tacks too. In the past we have seen bear and deer here.

Back to the big boats, hot showers for some to get rid of the mud. The guys went for a boat ride with Glen in the Jet boat. They made it up into the lake and zipped up the river past the church camp to the rock falls, looking at where we had just hiked but from the water side perspective, 1 bear, 1 gravel bar, 2 rocks found to get out of the lake. When they came back they switched boats to check the pots, we caught two small crab – throw backs, and about 3 dozen prawn. Okay we won't starve tonight.

Day 12 and 13 - Ketchikan - Naha

May 13^th –  Ketchikan to Naha Bay

 

Planned on leaving early but Magic had some phone issues (long story, but no we did not lose one overboard), so we went to the phone stores as soon as they were open.   Ended up with one new phone with a new carrier which hopefully will solve the issues.   We left mid-morning and headed to Naha Bay.   Glen put a Shrimp pot out before entering the Bay, keeping fingers crossed.

 

We’ve come to Naha every trip and it is always a fun place.  Of course, it has a waterfall, but this one given the correct tide, you can go up and into the lake.    We took a short hike just to check out the waterfall and get a peek at the lake.  Some locals came by in their small boat to chat with us.  They live in a cabin in the area and saw our three Lower 48 boats in the area and wanted to know how we got through Canada.   We explained the process we used and they made mental notes to give to some friends.  Apparently they have friends that live up here but keep their boat down in Washington in the winter; and since Covid started have not been able to get their boat up to Alaska.   They were happy to see us in the area and told us that it was clear that we ‘knew what we were doing’.    

 

Glen and Steve went out to check the pot.   Glen apparently did not pick a good spot as we only got 2, yes 2 shrimp.  I cooked them up and Michelle and I each had one with our dinner.  Fresh shrimp are always good.   Hopefully after an overnight soak the pot will remember what it is supposed to do – catch shrimp/prawn.  

 

 

 

May 12^th – Ketchikan

 

Spending the day doing chores and a bit of grocery and fishing tackle shopping.  Pete will be leaving the group today to fly back home for a bit as he has chores to do at home.  We expect him back accompanied by Linda in July.

 

While the girls shopped in the afternoon the guys did boat work which included installing some new cleats on Nelsea.  Glen was tweaking or at least looking at our Diesel furnace as he had the thermostat taken apart.  We have both electric and diesel heating systems so not too desperate, but when I want heat, I want heat.  There is always something to do.

 

I had two, one hour conference calls (3-5pm), and then joined the group who had already left for a nearby restaurant which was running a Wednesday night special -  in and ordered by 5pm, with the purchase of ‘an adult beverage’ you could get dinner (hamburgers, chowder, tacos, various wrap sandwiches, with fries) for $5.  Since I was going to be late, Glen ordered for me. 

 

The Nelsea and Magic crews played some cribbage.  Girls against guys; we think the guys cheat as they are now up 5 games in a row.  Maybe time for a new deck of cards. 

Watched a movie and called it a night. 

May 11th - Dundas to Ketchikan

Day 11 – May 11^th   Dundas to Ketchikan

 

As usual I was up by six.    Another US boat had come into the bay late last night and they set out at 6:30 this morning but not before I got a reflective photo.

Our plan is to leave about 8am and get to Ketchikan, clear customs, fuel up and decide what to do next by afternoon.  There is talk of maybe going out to dinner, time and AK’s  ‘covid policies’ will likely play into that decision.  No matter it will be good to just be on the boat in Alaska again.  

 

Today might also mark the last time Glen shaves for a while.  He has this thing about not shaving in Alaska while on the boat.  But any beard will suck back in again the moment we enter Canada on the way home.  It’s his Alaskan tradition.  

 

The following was waiting for me at the breakfast table.  Glen remembered.  <grin> 

  

 

Michelle came over and sang Happy Birthday too me.  

 

Michelle is on her sat system this morning playing the game of getting us reservations into Glacier Bay.  This is day two of our attempts.   Keep your fingers crossed!     Whew we got our reservations!

 

We headed out and the seas looked fairly flat but there are ocean swells hidden in there, so on with the special jewelry – the Relief Band seasick bracelet.  I swear by this product.

 

9:15am  Steve reported that we had officially crossed the border back into the USA.   So, I guess that means that it is really only 8:15am, but we likely won’t reset our watches until we are officially ‘admitted’ to Alaska. 

Water was very doable today.

 

 

1pm  (noon Alaskan time), we can see Ketchikan in the distance.  Yippee.  If you need diesel come to Ketchikan!     Roche Harbor price $3.89.   Ketchikan price $2.85   Okay Ketchikan might not be in your circle of travel this summer but the fuel price is good.

 

Thanks to all who have sent me Happy Birthday messages today. 

 

Had a nice text chat with my friend Mickie in Zurich today.  Miss our visits during meetings in Denver with the NSP.   Hi Mickie, wish you were here.

 

Pulled into Ketchikan, fueled up and the customs officer came down to the boat, checked our passports etc.. and welcomed us back into the USA.  He told us we were at home and safe again.  It took all of 5 minutes to clear. 

Now the adventure really begins.   

Headed to the City dock in Barr Harbor and staying at a dock tonight, and going out to dinner.   

 

 

What will today bring???

Day 10 – May 10^th

Woke up to heavy fog, and I mean really heavy, couldn’t even see the burgee at the front of the boat.  It cleared by about 9am and it promises to be a sunny day.  Plan is to go about 50 miles today ending in Prince Rupert.  

No bear sightings in Lowe Inlet this trip.

Lots of waterfalls along the way and some great snowy hill tops.  Took some photos for our skiing buddies to dream about.  If only we had a helicopter to get us up there. 

It was quite pleasant to sit outside on the back deck, out of the wind as we cruised along, so I did that for a while looking at all the snowfields or possible ski runs all around us.   Saw lots of large cornices and slide zones. 

 

We had great water and weather today so when we got close to Prince Rupert the captains had a very brief discussion.  Do we stop in Prince Rupert where we can’t get off the boat or anything, or do we push another about 20 miles and go to Dundas and position ourselves for a shorter day tomorrow?

Push on … North to Alaska!!!

 

 

If you keep watching you will see Eagles, Seals, various seabirds, and an occasional whale.   But the beauty of the Mountains, Waterfalls, Trees are amazing.   Sometimes we say – what did you see today?  …. More Rock, Water and Trees.

Tomorrow should be about a 50 miles run into Ketchikan.    Dinner was prepared as we traveled and ready to eat as soon as we were anchored.   Then it was time for a movie.   Steve was pushing for  ‘North to Alaska’ with John Wayne.  Pete was pushing for ‘The Wreck of the Mary Deare’ with Gary Cooper and Charlton Heston.  Pete won out.   Neither are great.   It was suggested that I put my seasick bracelet on before the movie started, not a good sign.  The movie starts with very rough seas.  But I made it through.  It sometimes amazes me at the collection of bad old movies, okay sometimes there are some good ones, that a group can bring on a trip like this.   I think Magic has about 150 DVD’s onboard.

 

Mother’s Day part 3

Next we passed by Butedale, a former very large cannery.  Photo ops for each boat in front of the massive waterfall.  Hey, it's the tourist thing to do.  There has been some more work there cleaning up the place.  Rumor has it that some is slowly trying to build it back up into a community of sorts.  

 

Nelsea at Butedale

 

Nellie at Butedale

 

Traveling up the Princess Royal channel and just stopped for a bit of internet and phone access, just off the community of Hartley Bay.  Spoke to Nicole who wished me Happy Mother's Day and said that she has been reading the blog.  

 

Work done, now heading up the channel again.

 

Anchored for the night in Lowe Inlet.  Every time we've been here we have seen black bear on the beach or low grass lands; keeping fingers crossed.  This inlet has a great waterfall, and of course the 'Lowe Budget Inn', which we did not go visit this year.  It is a small hunting cabin in the woods.     

At some point in time there was a large cannery or something, evidenced by a large area of piling which likely held up a large dock-based structure.

 

 

Almost immediately after anchoring Magic, I spotted something moving in up-shore grasslands.  Too small to be a bear, but a brown furry looking thing.   Grabbed the big binoculars, took a look and had Glen look as well.  What is that?   Glen thought a wolverine at first.  But we ended up deciding it was most likely a Porcupine.   A bit too far away for the camera to get a good photo but we tried.    Near that critter were two tall birds.  Not Herons, but what are they?  Their voice was sort of like a turkey.  They had long legs, long necks, a fluffy tail, and red on their head.  Looked like geese when they flew.   Got a couple photos but still don't know what they were.  Likely in the Heron family. Update: The bird is a Sandhill Crane.

 

 

Had a slide show after dinner to let the others see what we saw today.   They were ahead of us by about a mile and did not see any whale.  

The sky cleared and it was still very light out at 9:30pm, we must be heading north.   With snowcapped mountains or hills all around us and a clear sky it was quite cold outside.

It was indeed a great Mother's Day.

Mother’s Day part 2

Mother's Day part 2

 

About that time heading down the channel, Glen spotted three Orca so I jumped for the camera and boy did we get a Mother's Day show!    They were on our bow so we moved right to give them room  which put them away on the port side.   

Thinking they were gone, I opened the pilot house door to try for a photo of a waterfall, and about fell over as I screamed.  An orca surfaced basically right in front of me right next to the boat.  We've never seen it before but this whale gave us a show by swimming alongside us and porpoising in our wake.  I was taking pictures like crazy.  Glen got some video.   I did get a photo of the waterfall too.  

 

Two of the best photos of the day … you will love these.

 

 If that was not exciting enough, Glen spotted a low flying plane heading our way down the channel.  I got outside fast enough with the camera but looked left instead of right, and again had the ka-gebbies scared out of me as the plane basically passed over us just barely over our top.  Sorry no photo.  But I bet he heard me scream.    It's only 10:45 and this has been an exciting day.  Oh, and I forgot to say it stopped raining.   

 

Happy Mothers Day part 1

 Happy Mothers Day!

  

Day 9 - May 9^th – Happy Mothers Day!

A bit brighter but still raining this morning!  

 

What our view from astern looked like early this morning.  Waterfall and shoreline.  Not too far behind the boats but a safe distance and we still had 49 feet of water under us.

I named this waterfall baby Kutze.  It was just behind our boats while at anchor and made soft watery music all night.  Much quieter than the roar of water from some of the bigger waterfalls. With all this rain and the snow melt there is massive amounts of water in many of the waterfalls.

  

 

 

Kept watch out for a bear sighting but no luck so far. 

Headed out this morning about 9 for about a 50-mile journey to Lowe Inlet.  We are about 2-3 days ahead of scheduled right now but the weather and water have been favorable.   We know that there are high winds coming so we which may delay us by a couple days (maybe in/near Prince Rupert) so we are trying to get as far north as possible so when that window of opportunity calls we will be in position to make the crossing of Dixon and into Alaska.  

 

A few miles up the Magic crew swung by the Swanson Bay Cannery site to see what was visible from the water.  It appears to have been a going concern in its day.   Old pilings, a few concrete buildings, and a tall brick smoke stack still visible tucked into the woods.  There also is a large river/falls a short distance from the building.   It would be fun to explore that site.  Not this year, can’t go to shore and there was also a sign saying ‘private property  so alas no close-up exploring.

 

The building on the right appeared to be about concrete and 4+ stories tall with lots of windows.  This clearly was a large cannery operation.

 

 

Saw a Humpback whale as we rounded the corner, but no photo op as it ‘tailed’ and disappeared beneath the surface.     There are many waterfalls along this route all with lots of water and some with snowfields along their path.

 

Shawn had given his dad a card to present to me this morning --- Happy Mothers Day.   

Or Happy Mom osa!    He is a special guy.

 

 

More to come later.

Oliver Cove to Greene Inlet

Day 8 – May 8^th 

 

Departed Oliver Cove at 8:30am headed for Greene Inlet; about 46 miles away.  It is still raining.

Cold and wet outside, so staying inside today.   Scenery included waterfalls today.  Big waterfalls coming down high snowcapped hills.   The waterfalls in the following pictures were close together and must come from one very large lake up there somewhere. 

 

Waterfall Point Waterfall

 

Anchored at about 2:30 for the afternoon and night in Horsefly Bay in Greene Inlet near a waterfall that reminded me of the one at Kutze only much smaller.   Had some afternoon snacks, and then the Nelsea and Magic crews headed out in the Jet Boat to check out a river nearby.

No Glen, we are not going to try to go up that wall of water and into the lake, so get that idea out of your head.  Of course, he had to try to see how far up the rapids he could get.  Michelle likely has a video attached to her blog.  It was one of Glen’s famous roller coaster rides.  Even the seagulls were laughing at us.

 

We cruised around the bay a bit and looked at the waterfalls.  

 

Saw one large Eagle on the beach and tried to get some photos, no keepers.  The following photo is from Michelle.

 

Got a little too close to shore trying to take photos and sucked up some rocks into the Jet.  Started backup kicker motor and started back to the big boats.   Jet started back up so Glen and Steve decided to take a longer ride.  But first they let the girls off and picked up 10 more gallons of fuel.  For weight or fuel not sure but likely to make sure they had enough to get back.   Their plan is to go to Kutze to see what they can see.  I told Glen that he had to take some phones.  Yes, Jim one just for you as we know that is one of your favorite places.  

Kutze waterfall with snow down to the bottom.

 

They tried to get some snow to bring back for us but the ‘Devils Club’ held them off.

 

Back at the mothership, I worked on some projects, and stayed inside and warm.  It is still raining. 

What we looked like at anchor.  Left to right – Birdarka, Magic Moment, Nelsea, and Nellie.