July 13 - Day 73 Wachusett

July 13 - Day 73   Wachusett 

 

 

 

I was up at 5:15 this morning and it was solid fog all around, but not raining.   By 7:30 the sky had cleared a little, I could now see the shoreline behind the boat which is only about 20' away. 

 

Anchored close to shore

Some of the rock treasures, found over the trip.  Glen has started looking at rocks with a different eye.

 

We left the big boats at anchor and headed up toward the Wachusett Glacier.  This is a hanging glacier in that it does not reach the water anymore.  The route was totally foggy but we decided that in Alaska the weather changes in minutes so go for it.   This glacier has a large mud filled inlet so based on the 2016 trip we don't expect to get to the end.   This is the area that in 2016 the muddy water was so thick that the fish were flopping on the surface to breath.    No fish this year, but lots of mud and much further down-stream.   There was quite the odd-looking water flow in one section, clearly shallow but with a strong outflow of water.  

 

We found the mud wall and decided to see how close we could get.  We nosed up to the mudflat and Jane offered to go 'ashore'.  Glen suggested just putting one foot on it to test first.  She sunk a bit, so it was a 'no go' for walking.  

That is all mud not water behind her leg.

 

On the way back down the inlet we spotted a grizzly on the beach.  It was sitting by a stream waiting for fish.  Could have a a long wait. 

 

 

Further down stream I saw something move on the beach and thought we had another bear.  On closer look it was a wolf.  A scrawny looking wolf.

 

 

At anchor Wachusett Inlet Hook.  Still in the mist after our excursion

July 12 – Day 72 - Glacier Bay

July 12 – Day 72  -  Glacier Bay  

 

It was still raining and raining hard in the morning.  

We pulled out of the Anchorage under wet skies headed for Wachusett Inlet.   At one point along the route we could see what we think was the Casement glacier in the distance.  

 

First we went up the Tidal Inlet just to see what we could see.  Basically rock, water, and trees, with a few waterfalls, and very high and steep hillsides.   Critters seen:  various birds – 2-3 kinds of seagulls, seal, sea otters (of course), and a couple humpback whales feeding along the shoreline.   In all a pretty but fairly boring tour.

 

Humpback with Bidarka in background

 

The same whale with us in background taken by Bidarka

 

We are not as close to that whale as it looks.  Long camera lenses help a lot

 

We anchored in a little nook 2 miles into Wachusetts Inlet and tied to shore, then jumped into the small boats, 4 in Nellie and 4 in ours (it needs a new name – it's not as 'stupid' as it was last year) and headed off for McBride Glacier expecting about a 2-hour round trip tour. We were gone about 2 ½ hours but it was worth it.   It was expected to be a bit chilly so most of us put on our 'snow/rain play clothes', and Glen changed out of his shorts and added a fleece vest T shirt).   As we got closer we saw bergy bits in the water, and then larger bergs.   Still nothing like the size of bergs we saw in 2013 and 2016.  

 

Glaciers  that we saw today in order of sight/viewing.

·       McBride Glacier

·       Riggs Glacier

 

We made the turn toward McBride (where we had left all the big boats in 2016) and headed up inlet.  There was quite a bit of ice in the water most small but there were a couple larger bergs.  Of course, that did not stop Glen from playing 'Everglades driver' whizzing his way through the ice.    He did slowly try to push one large berg and nudged it a bit, but it just sat there looking at us.   Some of the shapes of the bergs are interesting, so its always fun to see what you can 'see' (imagine) in the shapes.  Today we saw: Whale tales, a Dragon, a humpback whale head coming out of the water with its mouth open, an oversized soccer ball, and lots of large Lego blocks.

This one is the dragon and the darker part on the right is the breaching Humpback

Humpback closer view

 

 

Perspective of size --- Iceberg vs Nellie

 

 

We were able to get to the face of the glacier, but didn't go any closer than 150 feet, mostly staying back further.   It appears to have receded about 1 mile since our last visit.  But we'll have to compare photos at some point.    This glacier is beautiful and amazing in size and colors.  From black through every shade of blue to white.  It did a bit of caving for us but nothing really large.   The biggest chunk being about the size of a small whale when it was floating in the water.   Lots of photos were taken.   

On the right is another glacier and valley with lots of water coming down the middle.  The sides are very tall and dark from the ice being covered by rocks.  Still very impressive.  Jane and I went ashore near a river and rock basin.  The rocks were of every size, shape and color.  I was on the hunt for that special 'glacier rock' for yard art. I look for smaller treasures than Glen who goes for Pelton wheels and the like.  I wanted to get special rock for Steve (he likes them for his yard) and found one but Glen would not help retrieve it.  This of course made Michelle happy as she says he has too many rocks already.   

 

 

 

Tug boat time

 

Glen playing tug boat with a large berg.

 

 

Seals resting on the ice bergs.  These all look to be young seals.

Seals have their babies up in these waters near the glaciers and often leave their pups on bergs while they go fishing.

 

Nellie passing a berg.   The black hillside behind is ice covered with rock.

This is the glacier to the right of McBride

 

The spires on the right and the wall on the left are rock/dirt covered ice.  That is a big waterfall in the middle.

 

 

Beautiful rock

 

McBride in the background

 

Up close and personal

 

McBride from a distance

 

In 2008 we left Magic anchored at the entrance and went into by dinghy and kayak and there were lots of larger bergs.   In 2013 or 2016 we left the big boats at the entrance again and went in by dinghy, but I don’t think we got up to the face of the glacier that year.  

 

The inlet headed toward the Muir Glacier is closed to motor traffic.  But when exiting McBride, we went across the channel and up a little bit (without crossing that imaginary boundary line) and were able to see the upper left side of the Riggs Glacier.   It still looks great and from what we could see, it seems to be at about the same place it was in 2016.  But since we could not see the terminus we can’t be sure.   Again, comparing photos might shed light on that.

 

 

Interesting rock walls.  The dark veins here stick out about 4-6 inches from the lighter colored rock

We were still back in time to prepare a quick dinner for our standard 7pm seating.

July 11 – Day 72 --- Glacier Bay

July 11 – Day 72 — Glacier Bay 

 

On the move today in search of Glaciers, Icebergs, Mt Goats, Bear, and whatever else we might see in the area.  This is truly an amazing place.  The glaciers seen in Glacier Bay today are the remains of the 'Little Ice Age' that began about 340 years ago and reached a max extent in this area around 1750 when melting began.   While most of the glaciers are receding, a couple are growing.  In 2004 the John Hopkins glacier was advancing at a rate of 8 feet per day, while the Grand Pacific was receding about 4 feet per day.  Per the books the McBride Glacier is the most active and is retreating about 3,000 feet per year.     The air temp in Glacier Bay is generally in the 50's.    Entrance into the park is limited by a permit process.  They only allow 25 boats in the bay at any one time.  So, with staggered entry dates and lengths of permits (up to 7 days) it is likely that only 3-4 boats can enter on any one day.

 

It is amazing to see the carved-out valleys some still with ice along the route.   The hills tops are very high and it is hard to think that at one point the ice filled these valleys to the tops of the peaks.   

Geographical facts – the moving ice does not carve the hillside walls, it is the rocks embedded in the ice that carve these walls.  Rock scraping on rock, and the ice picking up more rock along the way.  

 

The water is an aqua color and has a temp of 43.

 

We passed m/v Tonic near Reid glacier, they stayed in the Reid anchorage last night and had 20 knot winds all night.   We had the same in Reid when we stayed there on previous trips.   Brian and Steve managed to get into the park a couple days early so are ahead of us in this part of the adventure.  We chatted on the radio about where they have gone in the park.  Rats would  have liked to spend some time with them.   Took some photos to send to them.    These guys tend to move fast from one place to another (they called it an appetizer trip), while we tend to take more time and do more exploring.

 

Glaciers  that we saw today in order of sight/viewing.

·       Casement  …. 7/10 To the NE on the way to Blue Mouse Cove

·       Rendu ….. across from Blue Mouse Cove

·       Hanging – Hugh Miller?

o   Eagle photos

 

·       Reid

o   History - 1879 ---- ice wall across entire bay.

o   963 feet deep. Small ice bergs in water.  We looked from the entrance but did not go into the bay.  You can anchor out in front of it, but there is a steady cold wind coming off of it that is not all that pleasant.

 

 

·       Lamplugh     

o   Water out in front is 300 feet deep

o   Comes down to water, then has rock wall/beach in front with bergy bits on it.  at higher tide that would be underwater.  Today we are at low tide (20 ft swing this week) so it would likely look very different with higher water.

o   It appears to have receded quite a bit since our last visit of 2016. 

o   Calved for us in 2016 but not today.  There was a steady river of water coming out from under the glacier.

 

 

 

Hills along the route range from a couple thousand feet and very rugged to 6,800 feet 

 

Mt Fairweather is 15,300 feet.   It is out in front of us by 20 miles and is currently hidden from view due to clouds.

 

 

Entering John Hopkins Inlet

·       Hoonah  Glacier on left with lots of dirt on top, comes clear down to the water. Water out front is 800 feet deep, and 37 degrees

 

 

 

Gilman Glacier on left comes about ½ way downhill followed by snowfield below.

Gilman Glacier?

 

 

·       John Hopkins Glacier is the largest in this inlet

 

 

On way out was the ‘unnamed’ glacier which is mostly covered in dirt, but has an impressive waterfall that shoots water straight out like a broken fire hydrant.

Another hanging glacier

 

John Hopkins Glacier

 

 

Magic and I at John Hopkins Glacier

Glen was in the Jet

 

 

Deceiving but the glacier wall is over 150 feet tall and 1000 feet wide, running about 4 miles long up to the Brady Icefield.

 

Leaving Johns Hopkins Glacier 

Headed to Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers.  Weather changed and we now have mist and fog.  Might not be able to see these two glaciers but we have 3 miles to go so who knows the weather could clear.   

The sky cleared enough to see the glaciers.   

·       Margerie welcomed us with a calving just as we arrived.   One of if not my favorite.  Simply stunning!   Margerie looks to have grown and pushed out into the water further than it had been in 2016.  Still a very beautiful glacier.   It calved several times while we were there.  With any luck we got some on video.

 

·       The Grand Pacific is covered with dirt at the terminus at the water and seems to be at about the same position as in 2016.   From a distance you can see it’s uplands massive white icefield.  It reportedly goes back some 12 miles. 

 

It appears that Margerie and Grand Pacific still touch or are very close to touching just above the shoreline at the corner where they meet. 

The photos below are not necessarily in order and may not be identified by name correctly but I tried to keep better track of which glacier was which this year.  Forgot to use my plan of photographing a piece of paper with the glacier name as we approached each one.   It was a good plan but the plan got lost in the excitement.  

 

Nelsea and crew at the Margerie Glacier

 

Bidarka and crew – Margerie Glacier

 

Magic and Crew – Margerie Glacier

  

 

Pick your route

Sea Otter - happy to see us, and clapping

 

Aqua water in Russell Island anchorage

 

The water ranges from Agua to dark to a muddy brown throughout Glacier Bay; depending on where you are, near a stream, closer to a glacier, etc…   The Agua is the prettiest.   Steve said it looks like he is in the Caribbean, so I said okay go swimming and I’ll bet you change your mind pretty fast.

 

After a long day of glacier viewing, we anchored and stern tied at the Russell Island anchorage in 75 feet of water.   It rained most of the evening.

July 10 - Day 71 --- Magic and Bidarka enter Glacier Bay

 

July 10 – Day 71 --- Magic and Bidarka enter Glacier Bay

Headed into Glacier Bay to meet up with the Nelsea gang.   Missed them yesterday, but they were busy getting all the land-based Glacier Bay experience of the Hotel, Museum, Long House, etc…  We have decided to do that land-based stuff on our way out of the bay instead of the way in.  Michelle picked up the necessary guide pamphlet with map and 2021 rules for us. 

 

Welcoming Party

M/V Tonic should be in the bay over the next few days as well and we hope to find them along the way.

No whales in the big bay outside the park, bummer.  This is where we have seen whales bubble-netting on past trips.   Spotted first Glacier way off to the starboard.   Then a mountain Goat off to the port, high on the hillside.  Snow high on the hills and in patches (valleys) clear down to the beach in places. 

Air temp 59, water temp 49, semi cloudy, with clouds hovering at hill tops. 

 

First Glacier sighting - ??? Casement Glacier

We are headed to Blue Mouse Cove where we will meet up with Nelsea.

View from anchorage in Blue Mouse Cove

 

It was late afternoon when we were all anchored up in Blue Mouse cove, so the rest of the day held various activities.  The guys all went fishing, not catching, just fishing.  The gals played cards. 

There are limited anchorage areas in Glacier Bay primarily due to the rocky bottom, and currents and extreme depts in the bay.  In some places the tidal shift is 20 feet, and some areas of Glacier bay are well over 1,000 ft deep.  There were 2 other boats for a total of 5 in Blue Mouse Cove for the night.

After dinner we watched a video on National Parks of the US, then called it a night.

 

 

 

July 9 - Day 70 --- Nelsea heads into Glacier Bay

July 9 – Day 70 ---  Nelsea heads into Glacier Bay

Still raining.   Nelsea and crew are headed into Glacier Bay today.  Their entrance permit starts a day before the rest of us, but we all will exit on the same day.   Our hope had been to get a last minute (someone left the bay) permit to get Magic and Bidarka in today, but no luck.   Glacier bay only allows 25 boats in the bay at any one time.  We were sort of hoping that with the recent gray and damp/wet weather some people might have said they were done with Glacier Bay early.  It didn’t work out that way.

 

About 10am the rain stopped and the sky tried to clear.  By 10:30 it was raining again.  A misty soaking rain. 

We spent the rest of the damp day just relaxing, reading, working on computer or boat projects.  It was a lazy day.   Ended it with dinner and a movie per the normal routine.

 

 

July 8 – Day 69 - Elfin Cove to Inian Is.

July 8 – Day 69  - Elfin Cove to Inian Is.

 

A quite morning, not a lot of charter boat activity before 7am.  Then it looked like a number of fisherman were checking out to go home, backpacks and suitcases being loaded on 3 boats, likely just to take them to the float plane dock on the front side of town.  

 

After breakfast we headed over to George Island to take a hike, and look at the WWII cannon/gun site.   This gun was only shot once and that was for a test, which did not go well (aka it broke) and it was never shot again.   This is the island that Willard got lost (okay he misplaced himself) on in 2016.  Today we managed to keep the group together a bit better, only misplacing Steve for a bit when he went exploring on his own, but he came back soon enough.  

 

Not much to find on the beach there although I did find a 12 lb downrigger ball.   Not sure how that could have washed ashore; lead does not float well.

 

Someone was clearly bored on the beach in Elfin cove as the gathered rocks and shells to create the following.

 

 

After departure we headed out for East Inian Bay to anchor and be in Nellie distance to Gustavus to pick up Pete and Linda Jung who  joining the Nelsea crew tonight for the Glacier Bay leg of the trip.  It will be fun to have them with the flotilla.   

On the way over we saw some critters – one whale, lots of birds – Seagulls and Cormorants mainly, and a community of Sea Lions.  Most of the smaller sealions were in the water but there were some big guys on the rocks making noise at each other.  You know the normal, "I'm bigger and smarter than you so I should be 'king' of the herd" type talk.   In the end they went back to just lying on the rock ignoring each other.  If we only spoke sealion and could tell what they were actually saying to each other, but one clearly put the other one in his place down the pecking order.  

 

The two arguing

But clearly the 'King' was over on the next rock with the family out front.  This guy was big! 

The neighbors

 

Michelle had a pot of spaghetti sauce cooking, I baked French bread, and Jane provided salad for the welcome dinner.

Steve headed out in Nellie for a 1 hr. run to pick up the Jung's.  Their plane came in and Steve picked them up about 5pm without incident.  Steve's trip over was clearly cold and unsettled.  He reported that the crossing into town was 'rough and not a fun ride'.  For Steve to say that it must have been bad tides and currents.  The trip back was reported as flat water.   The evening was spent with dinner and lots of chat about what is happening back home, and up here.  Followed by the all-important re-showing of the Glacier Bay entrance informational videos (aka the rules).     Oh, and it is raining and  gray.