August 6 - Whitney Island to Thomas Basin

 

August 6 – Whitney Island to Thomas Basin

 

Morning – Jim went fishing – 3 more Silvers landed; he has the touch.  Crab pots were checked.  Spirit Bear, Sea Jay, Sea Life, Magic were all zip!  Noon Balloon hit

the jackpot with 5 keepers. 

Once everyone was up and toys stowed, we started out headed for Thomas Basin.   Just outside our anchorage two whale were spotted not far off our starboard, no photos were obtained, and no further sightings of these two. 

Today’s cruise was roughly 44 miles.  We pulled into Spurt Cove in Thomas Basin.  The cove is small and protected on three sides and contains one of the forest service cabins, unused this weekend.  We looked at anchoring in Scenery Cove closer to the glacier but it was not as protected and it was cold due to the wind coming down the hill from the snowfield above.  Spurt Cove was quite warm, but still has the icy blue green water from the glacier. 

We took two dinghies (Magic with 4 and Sea Life with 2) and went exploring the Baird glacier and did the hike to the Cascade Creek water fall.  Sea Eagle followed with six aboard.  Mike and Bryan stayed behind to read and do chores.

Glacier – The Baird glacier terminus is basically on land now, as it does not drop burgs into the water but its ice flows out onto a long section of glacial debris – rocks and silt.   We managed to find the main outflow and followed it up as far as we could.   We got to the same place we did in 2013 and beached the two dinghies and went ashore. Climbed up the hill side and were able to see across the valley of mud, silt landfill, and both white and dirty (rock filled/covered) ice.  Looks like one is on the moon.  The water is very cold – duh, it is melted ice; and it is very silty.  One cannot see thru it and the depth finders cannot either. 

 

Cascade Creek – there is a forest service cabin there which did not seem to be being used this weekend.   The waterfall is as beautiful as ever.  A large amount of water crashing down and out into the bay.   The trail however has had some major changes.  They have removed all the wood boardwalks, much of which had been logs or split logs with netting or cut marks across the tops for a non-skid surface. They removed the log ladders and steps, and basically replace everything with a large sized gravel path with medium to large rock steps up the hillside all the way up to the wooden stairs and bridge over the river and upper falls.   At the main falls viewing area they have moved some of the huge boulders around and placed a large log creating a sitting area, so people can sit on boulders or the log to rest and view the waterfall, while getting sprayed by the mist from the falls.  A lot of money went into this project.  It looks like it was done earlier this summer based on the lack of any real vegetation around the steps etc… and the large pile of tarp-like material bags.  One would guess that they airlifted in these large bags of gravel and rock and carefully lowered them thru the trees at various spots along the trail.  My guess is that since this basin is becoming a place where the smaller cruise boats come on a routine basis that that industry had something to do with pushing for all this trail work.  They have made it much more user friendly for most ages.

Some of the group walked up about a quarter mile past the bridge and reported that the trail work had continued up there as well.  Who knows maybe they did this work all the way to the lake which is 4 miles from the shoreline. 

We heard from a Petersburg local that there was no Forest Service money used to do all this renovation.  The cruise ships companies (not the huge ones) that go into Thomas Basin had gotten together and come up with a plan and fully financed the trail renovation project.  It is not yet completed but will be completed before the end of this summer.  The project cost was reported to be about $350,000.

 

We got back to the big boats about 7pm and skipped the appy’s and went straight into dinner prep.  Tonight’s menu was – Grilled Sesame Ginger Chicken, grilled Caesar salad, steamed broccoli with peppers, fresh carrots, broiled tomatoes with parmesan cheese, and Oven toasted garlic bread made from yesterday’s fresh baked French bread.   

 

August 5 - Pack Creek to Whitney Island

August 5 – Pack Creek to Whitney Island

Noon Balloon pulled out at 7:30am trying to get to the fishing grounds ahead of the rest.  It was closer to 9:00 before the rest of us pulled anchor and headed out under warm sunny skies and reflectively flat water.  Outside temp was 65 F at 7 am.  Pulled shrimp pot … 1 shrimp – this is getting ridiculous.  It will be a great day for cruising, and sight-seeing.  At 11am the outside temp was warm enough for sitting outside on the front deck while watching and photographing whales.  Saw a couple breach but missed the shots.  Dave got in a cleaning mood and spent some time during the cruise deep cleaning the fly-bridge.  What a nice guy.  Glen drove, Maryann worked on her famous spaghetti sauce for our dinner, and I worked on this blog (someday I’ll actually be able to post again), sorted thru photos, and did some other computer work to try to get caught up (ha ha I’ll never get caught up). 

Dave, the perfect guest/crew ….. cleaning the fly bridge …. Boy did it need it!

 

 

Came across an area with a good number of whales and had fun trying to get shots with four camera clicking away. 

 

 

 

 

As we went past the Five Fingers Light house there were people walking around the main building.  I was in the doorway taking a photo and Dave was upstairs both of us on the starboard side; then Glen blew Magic’s horn.  I’m not sure either Dave or I will ever hear again. 

We found our anchorage for the evening off Whitney Island in Cleveland Passage with all 5 boats rafted up.  Crab pots were put down, time will tell.  Jim, Brian, Lenore, Gary, and Mike and Willard all went out fishing (three boats).  Fish count – Nooner = 0, Sea Life = 0, Sea Eagle = 5 nice Silvers in the boat, and one that got away out of the net.  Their weights ranged from about 6 – 11 lbs.

I gave some bread baking lessons on Magic; another student passed (a male this time).

Another large group dinner was done on Magic, this time Spaghetti, fresh French Bread, salad, and fresh mussels. 

 

Nooner lost it’s steering cable today, luckily very close to the boats so Glen played tug boat and pushed them back to the group.  They are hoping to find the appropriate parts in Petersburg in a couple days.

                           

 

 

August 4 - Pack Creek Bears - Now the Mighty Five

 

 

August 4 -  Pack Creek Bears – Now the Mighty Five

 

 

 

We spent the last three nights in Windfall Harbor.

Nelsea and Miner’s Debt pulled out starting their trip south at 8am.  We may or may not meet up with them again. 

Group 2 of the Pack Creek adventurers are set for today.  Jim, Gary and Lenore, Pete and Linda, Willard and Diane, Maryann, Dave, and Glen and Liz.  Cheryl did not feel well so stayed on the boat.  We went over to start our viewing at 10 am.  Yesterday’s group had to wait on the beach for an hour before going to the viewing area in the creek due to bear activity up the beach and along the route. 

On arrival we saw one bear on the beach to the south.   It was walking along and digging clams.   After our orientation we headed out as a ‘clumped’ group along the beach.  We passed a Sitka Black Tail deer who was walking toward us on the upper beach.  She did not seem to mind us but did move to just under the overhung tree branches as we were at our closest point.  

 

 

 

When we got to the viewing area we saw a bear and two cubs (born this year) out on the grassy area.  They were taking a nap and the little ones were nursing.  Momma raised her head to look around periodically to keep track of what was happening around her.

The bear that we had seen on the beach earlier had been working its way up the beach and was headed up the stream.  Momma bear saw this and woke the kids and they stood their ground for a few minutes and then started to head off across the meadow away from the stream, and they played and laid down for another rest.   The ranger who was at the site told us that the incoming bear was another female.  Had it been a male the mom would have taken her cubs into the woods.

 

 

 

The other bear ran up and down the stream chasing salmon, but did not seem to be a very good catcher of fish, and was not interested in the other bear family.  She worked her way up the stream and out of sight.  Once she was gone momma bear brought the cubs back over to her ‘day bed’ spot on the stream and the little ones played while mom looked for fish.  One of the cubs was much more adventurous than the other and went swimming and tried to follow mom around and even would take fish away from her.  The other one stayed on shore following along and leaning down to play with its sibling but would not get into the water.

 

 

Nine of us decided to take the hike to the upstream tower. So we walked back to the starting point on the beach and up the other trail about 1 mile to the viewing tower. We passed a ranger on the way and she said that there were two bear up there.  The group stayed together and the hike took 45 minutes one way.  The tower had a large platform high above the stream.  There was a beaver dam on a side shoot of the stream to the left of the tower.  We did not see any bear near the tower or any bear in route.  But did see lots of fish in the water, trying to swim upstream, lots of dead fish in the water and on the shoreline, and several types of sea birds (gulls) feeding on the dead fish and likely on fish eggs.  The place smelled like fish fertilizer. 

 

 

    

Interesting fungus growing on the trees – bright orange

 

 

Fish in the creek

 

 

 

 

Groups are allowed 3 hours from beach to tower and back to beach, so we headed back at the appropriate time.  Jim and Linda were on the beach waiting for us.  We went back to the big boats and had lunch and enjoyed the sunshine.  Yep we had a warm sunny day. 

Dave enjoying some sun and reading time.

 

Glen and Dave went kayaking for a bit.  After dinner the Magic crew went back over to Pack Creek for an evening viewing. 

On arrival we walked up the beach to the viewing area.  The tide was very low and there were 6 bear on the beach - tidelands.  Momma and her cubs, two sub adults – Ruby and Rufus (about 3 yr. olds), and another adult female on the beach.  There were also a large number of Eagles on the tidelands.  When we first got the viewing area, there was also another bear up stream walking around in the water. 

The rangers spotting scope was very handy to view the bears activities way out on the tidelands.  Rufus dug a hole and then promptly sat in it.  He just sat there for quite some time.  Mom and the cubs came first running up the river.  Mom catching fish and the little one stealing it from her.  The two cubs were eating the fish and growling at each other as they were grabbing for the juiciest parts.  Sibling rivalry at the dinner table.

Info from the Ranger – the mom and cubs:  cubs were born this past winter as the first cubs to this 7 ½ year old mom.   She had a ‘bad’ mom (not very attentive or protective) so they have been watching her closely to see how she does.  So far pretty good, very attentive, protective, etc…

Ruby and Rufus are not related but are both 3 ½ year olds who were both chased off by their moms last year.  They hooked up as friends and have been hanging out together since. Rufus is a lonely bear who wants attention and to play a lot.  Ruby puts up with Rufus and ignores him a lot.

Teenage Mom: First appeared last year with about a two-year-old with her.  They do not believe that that cub was hers based on their interactions.   The younger bear is about 3 ½ this year.  Teenage mom at first they thought she was quite young and a teenage mom but now they realize that she is in fact a much older bear but just a very small bear.

The cubs generally stay with their mom for 2 or 3 summers and then she chases them off.  

Females stop growing when they have their first litter which generally does not happen until they are 7-8 years old, even though they are sexually mature at about 4 yrs.  They have litters of 1-4 cubs, and about 40% of those cubs do not live to adulthood.

Males continue to grow throughout their life.  They do not compete successfully with other males for the opportunity to mate until fully into adulthood. 

Bears can live as long as 30 years depending on their food supply, injuries, conflicts with other bears or humans.

In all it was a great day, sunny warm, and a bear show. 

Lots of photos and videos were shot today.

Teddy bears?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Momma looking at us

 

 

 

 

 

A little one running with fish tail hanging from mouth.  Kept dropping it and going back to pick it back up; must have been tasty

 

Goodbye to the bears

 

 

   

 

 

August 3 - Windfall Harbor, Pack Creek group 1 and Last night for the Mighty Seven

 

August 3 – Windfall Harbor, Pack Creek group 1 and Last night for the Mighty Seven

Group 1 of the Pack Creek adventurers headed out about 8:40 am with plans to be at the bear site by 9:00am.   Michelle, Steve, and Mike Nelson, Tom Miner, Big Mike (from Sea Life), and Brian (from Sea Jay). 

It was a damp day, with on and off sprinkling and rain.  Those of us who did not go bear watching did other things including chores, prawn pot tending, dinghy rides, and staying inside warm and dry.

The bear group reported good bear activity – especially the frolicking of Ruby and Rufus.  Some reported that it was ‘bear porn’, others reported it as two kids playing and wrestling.  Michelle reportedly got some great video which we will likely see at our post trip get together.

 

 

August 2 - Windfall Harbor

August 2 – Windfall Harbor

Today seems to be a day of rest and truly laziness.  Some went fishing, some did chores, some played cards or read.  Several of the guys went over to the Pack Creek site to talk to the Rangers and figure out what the plan should be for tomorrow.  A group of 6 will go tomorrow and a group of 12 the next day. 

The weather today was gray with high clouds and it tried to sprinkle on us a few times. 

Dave and Glen went out and checked the Shrimp Pot.  We got about 9 shrimp of med to small size with 1 big one.  Of course the pot was reset. 

 

 

August 1 - Tracy Cove to Windfall Harbor

 

August 1 – Tracy Cove to Windfall Harbor

We had a lazy morning.  Some went out fishing and others did other things.  Gary was the only one to catch anything, a nice Halibut.  The rest said that the current was running too fast so they could not stay in one place long enough to catch anything.

Once everyone was back from being lazy or whatever, we headed out.  Headed for Pleasant Harbor we think.  In route we saw a couple whale in the distance (no photos), Eagle, and a family of four deer on a beach.  We ended up in Windfall Harbor for our anchorage as we could not find a good spot in Pleasant Harbor.  We are not far from the Pack Creek Bear viewing site that we’ll all be going to visit in a couple days.  Shrimp Pots were put down.  Keeping fingers crossed.

 

 

 

July 31 - Endicott Arm - Dawes Glacier

July 31 – Endicott Arm – Dawes Glacier

Today’s adventure was to go by dinghy or small boat up Endicott Arm to see the Dawes Glacier and Fords Terror.  Sea Eagle, No Debt, Nellie, and Magic’s dinghy were loaded and off we went for a long tour.  The trip to the Glacier is approximately 23 miles one way, add in Fords Terror and you have about a 60 mile total trip.  Luckily for us the weather is clearer, not clear but clearer today and dry.  Actually there are hints of blue sky peeking thru the high cloud layer.  With the high cloud layer were able to see the tops of the hillsides lining the arm and many hanging glaciers, and high waterfalls along the route.

We passed by the Sumdum Glacier, now a hanging glacier; at which once had an Indian village near its base.  We also passed Sanford Cove where we anchored in 2013.  Sanford Cove was the historical site of a mining operation and village many many years ago.  It was the Tlingit Indians from Sumdum that helped John Muir on his exploration in 1897. 

 

A decision was made to go to Fords Terror first.  We made the turn into the that arm and Glen decided to stop and pump some air into the starboard tube of our dinghy.  It has had a slow leak for weeks and he has glued it one or two times.  As we stopped Dave already had the pump out, but the tube went basically flat.  Glen looked at it and decided that the pump would be of no use, the tube seam had split.  So the tube had to be tied up to keep it from ripping more.  The dinghy still floats but at a bit of an odd angle.  Of course all the other boats zipped past us leaving us in their dust.  Apparently they thought we were just putting fuel in or something.  Once things were tied we started out again.  Just before reaching the ‘terror’ entrance (rapids that were running but with high water so nothing special), Glen stopped again to readjust the tie job.  Maryann and I suggested that we go to shore and do this adjusting on shore.  He got the message and we went to shore.  Maryann and I got out and walked around the shoreline while Dave and Glen messed with ropes.  We did not go too far as this is bear country.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sea trials for the ‘repair’ job.

 

Someone from the group called us on the radio and Glen told them that we would not be going and would wait here for their return.   Wrong – He changed his mind and we headed out again. 

 

 

We explored the inlet and basin and then came back out with the others.  

At that point Maryann and I transferred to No Debt and Glen and Dave continued on to Dawes Glacier in the odd looking dinghy. 

 

 

Almost there

 

 

 

 

Very interesting and odd rock walls along the route. 

 

Little Magic and Nellie in front of the glacier …. Still several hundred feet from it’s face.

Odd ice formation.

Dave and Glen – Dawes Glacier

 

Caving in action.  

 

 

 

Liz and Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Willard and Mike stayed back from the glacier adventure today and went fishing instead …. Sea Life now has Halibut in the freezer.