Friday, July 5, 2013

Tracy Arm - Amazing blues and laughter




June 30 - Tracy Arm

 Sawyer Glacier

The plan was to get up and leave our anchorage by 8:30am for Tracy Cove.   Well as all planned things change and just getting 6 boats moving takes longer than planned we weren't moving until about 10:00 am.   Okay there was some boat repair needed by Panacea  before they could leave (oil in the bilge due to a loose screw or nut).  Tom and Jason aboard Miner's Debt has headed into Juneau to be ready to send Jason to his plane in the morning and Steve and Michelle on Nelsea have hit the end of their time with the group and are starting their trip south.  They plan on spending time in Desolation sound with a couple other boats before getting home the first part of August.  
We moved the flotilla over to Tracy cove, which is really an unnamed cove just outside Tracy Arm.   Again it takes a fair amount of time to anchor secure now 4 boats.  Everyone packed lunch and boarded Reflections for our Tracy Arm adventure.    Again there weren't very many large icebergs in the channel.  Some medium sized ones and a few large ones; but none of the really big ones like we saw in 2008.  We were able to close to the glacier and the views were great.   Not a lot of caving going on but a few small chunks fell.  Nat and Glen put 'Inflatable Flec' into the water and Glen took Linda C, Pete, and Megan Mehlum out for a cruise through the icebergs which were spotted with seal moms, dads, and babies.   The real plan was to take photos of Reflections with the glacier behind it.   Once that was done it was play time.  Peter asked Glen to take him up close to an iceberg.  Glen did thinking he just wanted to touch it.   Well that was not the case .....  Pete climbed up on it and claimed it as his private island.   Many photos were taken.   Glen then took the dinghy over to another berg to show Megan some seal pups.   Pete had had enough of being the iceberg king and called Glen back.   But instead of picking him up, Glen jumped up onto the iceberg too .... only barefoot and of course in shorts.   There was a little male bonding and more photos and then they got back into the dinghy and came back to Reflections.  We then traveled back down the channel to the boats and a late dinner.   Another great day.


okay I got photos in here but why can't I get them right side up????!!!!!    So turn your head or screen to view these next three photos.

Bare foot of course

Pete declaring 'This is my Island!'

Tracy Blue

Tracy Arm dinghy ride

Waterfall in Tracy Arm







Endicott Arm and Fords Terror









 






June 29 - Endicott Arm
The group got up in Sanford Bay (Sumdum island) and we started up for our Endicott Arm adventure.  Mehlum's and Jung's went up the arm aboard Rendezvous.  Colliers aboard Flec and the rest of us went up in our dinghies.   Not many bergs at all.  The dinghies turned and went down into Ford's Terror.  The rapids at the bottom were fun ... Glen took 'little magic' and her crew surfing.  The others followed through the rapids at a slower pace.   The trip was worth the ride.    After coming out of the Terror we turned left and went up to the face of Dawes glacier.  We were able to get up pretty close this year.  Took lots of pictures and then did the long run back out to Tracy Cove where we had left the big boats.   

Sumdum Area: Sumdum glacier, Sumdum Island, etc.... LOL




June 28
Fresh baked cinnamon rolls for breakfast on Magic.   Glen helped Dave install his new throttle cable.   Pulled up crab pots --- starfish 2, crabs 0.  Hunter gatherers failed again. 
Today's plan is to travel up Stephens Passage toward Endicott Arm and Tracy Arm.  Depending on the winds etc... we may stay in Sumdum Bay off Sumdum Island.    The former home of the Sumdum indians.     Ya gotta love that name.  Where are you from ..... 'Sumdum Island'.    Sumdum is inside Endicott Arm. 
Panacea found the route with the whales.  Glen chose the shoreline route and so while we saw the whales off in the distance we kept our eyes peeled for black or brown furry critters on the beach.   
The water is flat calm again, and the skies are blue with fluffy clouds ... this is really rough to take!

1:45 pm Rendezvous and Magic ducking into Windham Bay to check it out.  Pete wanted to see the bay, as his father was on a Navy ship named the Windham.    So far big furry critters, but we did see a large family of otters running up a rocky bank and into the brush. 
2:00pm  ice berg dead ahead, not a really big one but pretty none the less.    Glen motored up to it went around for a look and then nudged it with our bow rail and burgee.   Nice photo op.    He distrubed nature just enough to get the berg to tip a bit.   One side went down a bit, but not really noticable while the side came up out of the water about 5 feet.  This created a different view of the berg .... more like mushrooms of ice.   Reflections came up and we got some great photos of them behind the berg.    The mushrooms settled back down in the water and all looked the way it was when we arrived.  Turned into Endicott Arm;  great shots of Sumdum glacier.  
It is very interesting that there are very few bergs of any size (small to large to huge) in the area this year.  Tom said he went into Tracy Arm yesterday and found the same thing.   A local guy in Petersburg told Glen that even LaConte glacier had very few bergs this year.   I had noticed that from the plane when I flew into Petersberg a couple weeks ago.   A local from Wrangle on the plane told me that the amount of snow in the winter has in influence on the amount of calving in the summer.   More snow = more calving, or less snow = less calving?   He did not say.  From comparing today to our photos of 2008 there appears to be less snow this year; we are about 10 days later this year than in 2008 for this section of our adventure.  Last time it was somewhat cloudy.   Who really knows but ice coupled with the beautiful sunshine, makes for a totally different view this year.     We set the anchor in Sumdum bay.   Very pretty   

June 25 - 27 Thomas Bay and Baird Glacier area



June 25   Thomas Bay
We went by dinghy to explore the Baird Glacier, with a plan to stop at the Thomas Bay waterfall on the way back.   On the way we ducked into scenery cove to take a look.  There must be a hot springs or something in the area as there was a very strong smell of sulfur in the air.   Went on to the glacier and tried to find the best route up river.   Glen dropped Maryann and I off on the glacier out fall and he went back to get Tom and Steve and lead them in.  Maryann and I walked up the rocky then dry moss covered rocks which had been deposited by the glacier years ago.   Moss and pink flowers, lots of tiny baby  shrimp all over the place (dead).   Glen found another route up river and past by us looking for a good spot to try to pick us up.   Once back aboard we all headed further up the water outflowing from the glacier.  The water temp was recorded as 32.3 F on our sounder.   Cold, but what do you expect from melting ice..  Glen, Michelle, and Steve got out of the dinks and walked on the ice.  Michelle immediately commented on how slippery it was ... duh, it's ice!  They also stated that they could feel the vibrations and up and down movement (slight) of the iceflow.  Back in the dinks and headed further up.   We stopped on a sandy beach .... okay silty beach and anchored the two dinghies and climbed up the rock hillside.  Some huge boulders and some very small rocks.  A couple of the big rocks were being held up by some very small rocks.   Moss, small alpine trees and pink and white flowers trying to make their mark in the area.     A small supply of glacier ice was collected for our evening use.   We also found a great ying/yang rock but did not pick it up.    I did collect one rock for my collection.  I call it the 'don't go there rock'. 
Baird Glacier - Flowers


Trail in 2008

Same trail in 2013 --- upgraded, yippee --- sorry photo is sideways


Glacier Ice

more new trail

Ying Yang Rock - Baird Glacier


Enough excitement, back to the big boats for some hot soup and sandwiches for lunch.   The waterfall can wait for another trip.  
Nelsea and her crew need to head out for points north.  They plan to go into Tracy Arm tomorrow before their guests John and Elise have to fly home from Juneau on the 28th.  Steve and Michelle plan to start heading toward home at that time.  That is unless we can convince them to stay out through the 4th of July.  Tom and Jason headed out of Thomas Bay with them.
Rendezous and Panacea pulled into Thomas Bay about 40 minutes after the others left.    5:15pm still in the same place but different boats tied to the mother ship for the night. 
Eric, Megan, Ollie and Sophie are now aboard Panacea, and they are getting used to having 6 people aboard. 
                                                                                                                                                                             
June 26
Glen led a tour of the Baird glacier for the Mehlum and Jung clans.    They had a great time and of course collected a few samples of glacier ice for cocktail hour. 
Then after lunch the Mehlum's, Jung's and Dodge's all took the ride and hike up to the waterfall.  Some more adventureous ones continuing to parts above the bridge.    Somewhere along the way they came upon another group of hikers.  Eric Mehlum recognized one as a guy he had gone to high school with.  He was up with the small cruise boat 'ship' (98 passengers) that was anchored not to far from our flotilla.   

Back to the boats, time to visit, nap, and then cocktail hour.  Reflections picked up there new crew in Petersburg today and rejoined the group about cocktail hour.   They were ready for an adventure so Glen lead another glacier tour.   This time the tide was up so they were able to explore a different section of the glacier and actually getting on top of the big berm that we climbed in 2008.   Glen says that it does not appear that the glacier has receded much over the past five years.  
The magic crew watched a movie and then headed to bed.


June 27
Left Thomas Bay today headed for Cleveland Passage.   Panacea has to make a detour back into Petersburg to pick up a new throttle cable for his dinghy motor, after breaking one yesterday.   He will catch up with the group sometime this evening.
We traveled up Fredrick Sound and anchored in Steamboat Bay.   Much of the bay goes dry at low tide, and no good spot to tie to shore, so we set two bow anchors and two stern anchors to hold our position, with bows pointing seaward.    Horseflies were active.  But we managed to lessen their population by several dozen.   Crab pots down.  Nat, Linda, Pete, and Glen went out fishing.   Maryann and I baked bread well rolls to be exact, and made a salad for our dinner with the Jung's; Linda is making beef stew.
Fishing group came back empty handed 'again'; that's why they don't call it catching!